If you’ve ever flipped over a skincare product and wondered why water is the first ingredient in skincare, you’re not alone. Ingredient-savvy consumers are increasingly skeptical of formulas that list “Water (Aqua)” at the top; it’s easy to assume that means you’re paying for dilution rather than results.
But water’s role in skincare is far more nuanced than it’s often made out to be. In reality, water is one of the most important components of many effective, skin-friendly formulas, especially when it comes to hydration, delivery, and tolerance.
This post breaks down why water is used, how much is typical, whether it’s really a filler, and how water-based formulas compare to waterless skincare.
Why Is Water the First Ingredient in Skincare?
Ingredients in skincare are listed according to INCI rules, which require them to be ordered by weight; not by importance or effectiveness. Because water is heavier than most cosmetic ingredients, it’s often listed first even when it isn’t the “star” of the formula.
Water plays several essential roles in skincare formulations:
- Solvent: Many beneficial ingredients dissolve only in water
- Delivery system: Water helps evenly distribute actives across the skin
- Texture & spreadability: It creates formulas that absorb smoothly rather than sitting heavily on the surface
In other words, water isn’t there to pad the formula, it’s there to deliver the rest of the ingredients and make them work better.
Is Water in Skincare a Filler Ingredient?
The idea that water is a “filler” has gained traction online, but it oversimplifies how formulations actually work.
A filler is an ingredient that adds bulk without contributing to performance. Water, when used intentionally, does the opposite. It enables hydration, supports barrier function, and allows for the inclusion of many proven, skin-compatible actives.
The more useful question isn’t “Why is there water?”
It’s “What is the water allowing this formula to deliver?”
A water-based formula with thoughtful ingredients can be far more effective — and gentler — than a waterless formula designed purely for concentration.
How Much Water Is in Skincare Products?
There’s no single “ideal” percentage of water in skincare, but most products fall within predictable ranges:
- Creams & lotions: ~60–80% water
- Serums: can vary widely depending on format
- Balms & sticks: often 0% water
The right amount depends on what the formula is trying to do. More water doesn’t automatically mean less efficacy, just as less water doesn’t automatically mean more.
What matters is balance: enough water to support hydration and ingredient delivery, without overwhelming the formula or diluting its benefits.
Are Waterless Skincare Products Better?
Waterless skincare has its benefits, and in some cases it makes sense. Removing water can reduce preservative needs, create a more concentrated feel, lower shipping weight, or reduce the amount of packaging needed per use of the product.
However, waterless formulas also come with real limitations.
Many well-researched skincare ingredients are water-soluble, meaning they simply can’t exist in a truly waterless product. This includes ingredients like hyaluronic acid and certain calming or barrier-supporting compounds. To remove water entirely, formulators have to remove those ingredients too.
Waterless products can also feel heavier or more occlusive, which isn’t ideal for everyone, especially those with sensitive or reactive skin.
Waterless doesn’t automatically mean better. It just means different tradeoffs.
Water-Based vs Waterless Skincare: Which Is Right for Sensitive Skin?
For sensitive skin, how ingredients are delivered matters just as much as which ingredients are used.
Water-based formulas often provide:
- gentler, more even distribution
- built-in hydration support
- a lower risk of overwhelming the skin barrier
Highly concentrated, anhydrous products can sometimes feel harsh or sit heavily on sensitive skin, even when the ingredient list looks minimal.
Choosing between water-based and waterless skincare isn’t about trends — it’s about what your skin can consistently tolerate and benefit from over time.
So… Are You Paying for Water?
Not exactly.
You’re paying for how a formula is designed, how ingredients work together, how well they’re tolerated, and how consistently they perform on real skin.
The best skincare formulas aren’t the ones with the least water. They’re the ones where every ingredient has a job, including water.
When used thoughtfully, water isn’t a shortcut. It’s part of what makes a formula effective, balanced, and skin-friendly.
Night C.A.P. is roughly 60% water, so it packs in about as many actives as possible while still maintaining a water based formula to enhance hydration and spreadability. Check out the product on our shop page for more information.
